There’s no better introduction to Agia Marina than arriving by ferry to its lively harbor, with 19th-century Italianate mansions and packed restaurants and cafes lining the waterfront. Just above is Leros’ oldest neighborhood, Platanos. It has stunning views of the castle, old pastel-colored villas, and a very local feel. That’s why it’s my favorite neighborhood in Leros to stay and spend time in!

Between Agia Marina and Platanos is Leros’ Archaeological Museum housed in a 19th-century building. Up the hill from Platanos, past sugar-cube-shaped houses, is Leros’ stunning Byzantine castle, the Castle of the Virgin Mary. If you don’t want to walk, you can drive to the castle from Panteli. The castle has two beautiful churches you shouldn’t miss and incredible panoramic views.

Panteli is a pretty seaside village that’s always bustling during the summer, with people spending the day there going back and forth between lovely Panteli beach and the restaurants and cafes that line it. I like Panteli most in the evening for dinner and drinks, when it is calmer and more romantic.

Above Panteli are six restored windmills that date back to the 17th-19th centuries. Inside the third one is the Traditional House of Leros Museum. The museum is beautifully decorated with historic items donated by Leros’ residents to give you a glimpse of what a Lerian home used to look like!

Lakki is not a traditional Greek island town. It became a naval base under Italian rule from 1912 to 1943 since it has the largest natural harbor in the Eastern Mediterranean. Mussolini commissioned a new town to be built there. The Italians constructed wide boulevards and rationalist-fascist-style buildings. The best examples are the market hall, clock tower, theater, church, school, hospital, and navy barracks. Lakki is considered the only rationalist town outside of Italy. It was designed for a population of 30,000, but today only 2,000 people live there, making it feel slightly eerie and empty. Regardless, it’s a must-visit for history or architecture lovers and to understand Leros’ history.

To learn more about Leros’ wartime past and the 1943 Battle of Leros, walk over to the Leros War Museum in Merikia. Weapons, photos, maps, and other historical items are on display in a WWII tunnel built by the Italians in the 1930s. There are also military vehicles and fighter jets displayed outside. Note: With the sounds of war playing on speakers, this museum may be triggering for some.

Xirokambos is on the southern end of the island facing Kalymnos. Its lovely harbor has several waterfront seafood tavernas and a nice beach that’s protected from the Aegean winds on both sides. Xirokambos beach is lined with sunbeds and umbrellas to rent and is popular with families.

If you walk 10 minutes from the beach and down a picturesque stone pathway you’ll find Panagia Kavouradena, a church built into the rock by the sea. It’s named Virgin Mary of the Crabs after the icon inside that depicts the Madonna inside a crab! Legend has it that a fisherman built the church around 1796 after finding an icon of the Virgin Mary in the rock when he was looking for crabs. Local tip: if you’re looking for your own stretch of sand, there’s a hidden cove to the right of the church!

Nearby is an old soldiers’ barracks from World War 2 (listed as Terra Amata on Google Maps). There are striking frescoes inside that are said to have been painted by a German soldier named Otto Meister. A few of these paintings are copies of the Dutch painter Pieter Bruegel’s original works.

Archangelos is an islet north of Leros. It’s uninhabited, with three small beaches and a single taverna, Stigma Archangelos. Call the taverna the day before (+30 693 340 9648) to arrange a boat transfer to Archangelos. You can also take a full-day boat tour to nearby islands with the wooden fishing boat Agios Georgios. It departs from Agia Marina and goes to three different islands daily for swimming and lunch. Options include Archangelos, Arki, Marathi, Tiganakia, Aspronisia, and Lipsi.

PS. Check out my Lipsi Travel Guide for a beautiful little island that is right off of Leros!

Leros’ WWII history can also be explored underwater! The island has the second most WWII shipwrecks after Normandy. You can visit the wreckage of the WWII destroyer Queen Olga, a German bomber Henkel-111, and an Italian barge ship, to name a few, with Hydrovius Diving Center. The center also offers dives to sites rich with marine life, night dives, and scuba classes for kids.