Fourni's main town and harbor
The little-known Fourni Islands (Φούρνοι) are in the eastern Aegean Sea between larger Ikaria and Samos. They include Fourni, Thymena, and about a dozen uninhabited islets. Fourni is the largest and most populated. It has crystal clear turquoise waters and, because of its lobster shape, countless coves and bays to discover. Fourni has a low-key, easygoing vibe. Most of its visitors are Greeks with ties to the island, making it feel very local. They don’t sit at the cafe on their phone or take selfies; they talk to each other! Centuries ago, the Fourni Islands were a pirate’s hideaway, perhaps why locals today are, by Greek standards, more reserved towards unfamiliar visitors. This Fourni, Greece Travel Guide will give you the lay of the land on all Fourni has to offer!
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Getting to Fourni
The only way to get to Fourni is by boat from the nearby islands or Athens. If you’re coming from Athens, the quickest option is to fly to Ikaria and take a 30-minute ferry from Ikaria’s Agios Kirykos port to Fourni. Book flights in advance because there’s only 1-2 a day! If you prefer a boat from Athens, your best option is to take the 6-hour fast boat to Ikaria and then take the 30-minute ferry from Agios Kirykos port to Fourni.
Map of the Fourni Islands
Excited to arrive to windy Fourni!
Getting Around
There’s not much on Fourni within walking distance of the main town, so you need transportation to explore the island. Greeks rent or bring via ferry a moped or car, which is why there’s only one taxi. In peak season, I’m pretty sure I was the only person taking the taxi (there were no automatic rental cars left and I don’t know how to drive anything else!). There are two car and bike rental companies in the main town – go to Escape Car & Bike Rentals. If you need an automatic car, reserve in advance. They only have a few.
There’s a 10-minute ferry from Fourni’s main port to Thymena that leaves at 7 am or 1 pm and returns at 4 pm. Book tickets in the town’s travel office on Sokaki Foirnon, the promenade leading to the town square.
To get to Fourni’s uninhabited islands, unfortunately, you’ll need your own boat!
Things to Do
Fourni’s Main Town
The harbor, promenade, and town square are lovely places to stroll. Walk down the few other streets in town, where you’ll pass locals sitting outside their houses chatting and cats lounging. On the promenade, right next to Ka_ndilos (mentioned later), is Fourni’s Traditional House Museum. It’s beautifully decorated to show how islanders lived over a century ago. There are descriptions in Greek and English, and entry is free! Also of note is the Roman sarcophagus in the town square.
Chrysomilia Village
Tiny Chrysomilia, a 25-minute drive from Fourni’s main town, is nestled into a hill overlooking the sea. Enjoy the picturesque village and sea views, then walk down 600 steps to the town’s beach and eat at the popular seaside taverna. For a secluded beach nearby, head to Agia Triada Beach.
Thymena Island
The Chapel of Agios Dimitrios above Keramidou Beach is a highlight of Thymena Island. It’s stunning and very rare for Greek churches to be brightly colored. Don’t miss it! PS. The door stays locked to keep it from opening with the wind. Just turn the key in the door to open it and go inside!
Some people recommend visiting Thymena for Keramidou Beach, but for an island packed with gorgeous beaches, Keramidou is not one of them and is just an average beach with a taverna and a small port. Here’s a local secret! If you take the path at the end of the beach after the taverna over the landmass, you’ll arrive at a breathtaking, secluded beach called Lakkos! Being alone on Lakkos and visiting the Chapel of Agios Dimitrios were the highlights of my week on the Fourni Islands.
If you have more time (you certainly will if you take the 7 am ferry!), walk to the harbor town after visiting the church. I’d recommend having lunch there as opposed to the taverna at Keramidou.
Beaches
Fourni has so many beautiful beaches. They all have crystal clear, turquoise water, so choosing a beach is more a matter of preference (natural vs. a beach with sunbeds and umbrellas) and the winds that day. Note that Greeks call beaches with sunbeds and umbrellas “organized” beaches.
Organized Beaches
Kampi Beach is a 15-minute trek from the main town. If you walk there, take the lovely, paved inland path at least one way. There’s a taverna at the beach that has sunbeds and umbrellas you can use. Above the beach are a few windmills, one of which is a cafe and bar. Kampi is a great option if you arrive on the island with an afternoon ferry and want to fit in beach time nearby!
Psili Ammos is one of Fourni’s most popular beaches because it’s a 10-minute walk from Fourni’s main town, has shallow waters, and is sandy (Greeks generally prefer sandy beaches). It has umbrellas, sunbeds, and a cafe/bar that is popular with young people, especially when the sun sets and the music gets louder. I didn’t enjoy the beach’s surroundings. To the right within view is a giant, decommissioned boat on a dock, and behind the beach is a crumbling building.
Unorganized Beaches
Petrokopio Beach is the site of an ancient Roman marble quarry and a lovely bay. The marble was used to construct the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and is said to have been used to build the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. There are unfinished marble pieces on the beach! There are a few sections of beach so you can choose the one you prefer.
Kassidi, Vlychada, and Vitsilia are beautiful beaches in the south that are within a few minutes drive of each other, so you can check them all out and see which one you like best. Go to Kassidi first, then Vlychada, before checking out Vitsilia. Kassidi and Vlychada are both in a bay that protects them from winds. At Vitsilia Beach, I didn’t love the car park so close to the beach.
One of the beaches at Petrokopio Bay
Above Lakkos Beach, Thymena
Food & Drink
Bakeries & Cafes
There are two bakeries in the main town, Kaniémpas on Sokaki Foirnon and one in the main square. I recommend the bakery in the main square. It has the best products and friendly staff. Try their pie with local myzithra cheese. It was delicious and unique, both sweet and savory at the same time. You can also try local thyme honey before buying, which I wasn’t able to do elsewhere!
The cafe with the best vibes in the main town is the colorful Sto Steki tou Skevou, located on Sokaki Foirnon close to the harbor. It’s a great place to sit with a coffee and people-watch. For a more traditional cafe, try Δροσιά, which has a lovely and relaxing location in the main square.
Another popular cafe along the harbor that specializes in dessert is To Arhontiko. Don’t miss their desserts! Seriously. Their galaktoboureko is the best I’ve had, while they’re most famous among locals for their ekmek kataifi, which is also delicious. Maïstráli is another great option for dessert, serving loukoumades, bougatsa, and other sweet treats. Both these cafes serve a good breakfast!
PS. Cafes turn into low-key bars at night. For a proper bar, though, there’s Mylos. It’s up a serious flight of stairs by the dock, with a view over the town (but doesn’t face where the sun sets).
Sto Steki tou Skevou
Restaurants
Pardalis Le Petit Pardal is, by far, the best restaurant on Fourni. Their mezes and meat dishes are great, and I especially loved their moussaka. Because the restaurant is much smaller than the fish tavernas along the harbor, the service is also better (fewer customers to feed and attend to!). Since the restaurant has limited seating, make a reservation if you want a table between 8-10 pm.
For seafood on the harbor, go with Delphinákia. A local dish to try is lobster spaghetti. While pasta isn’t homemade on Fourni, the island is rich with lobster that’s reasonably priced. I found the other seafood tavernas, like O Miltos and Nick & Jenny’s, all similar with average food.
Horta (boiled wild greens)
Shopping
Fourni’s tasteful shops are along its main promenade that connects the harbor to the town square. Visit Ka_ndilos for unique, homemade preserves and soaps mixed with local herbs and plants. The inside of the shop is beautifully decorated, and the owner is just lovely. If you’re looking for local thyme honey you can buy it from the town’s produce shops on the promenade or at the bakery in the town square. Fourni’s pure thyme honey was the best I tried in the region!
Accommodation
Fourni has one hotel and plenty of studios, apartments, and Airbnbs to rent in the main harbor town, where the center of the action is. If you do stay in the main town, don’t worry too much about location when choosing accommodation. The town’s small and everything’s within a few minutes walk. If you’re looking for seclusion or something different, there are a few options scattered around the island, including inside a traditional windmill that’s a 15-minute walk from Fourni’s harbor!
I stayed at Archipelagos Hotel in the main town and wouldn’t recommend it (expensive, not a great or appetizing breakfast buffet, and not the warmest staff). I would instead go with Patras Apartments, especially if you’re just one or two people staying for a few days, or rent a house through Airbnb. This is the highest-rated home on Airbnb in the main town with an excellent price point. The upside of an Airbnb home is being able to do laundry and wash your beachwear!
Wow, looks so beautiful. Great info and wonder to see your adventures!
Carol!! Thank you so much. It’s so wonderful to hear from you, I’m sending all my love to you and the family! Big big hugs!!